Alistair Carr continued his punk reinvention of Pringle of Scotland on Monday morning.
Inspired by his return to England after years abroad, Carr showed a series of well-turned coats and directional knitwear that owed a debt to once-rebellious English schoolgirls.
School uniforms showed up as candyfloss angora v-necks and kilty little box-pleated skirts. Coats and jackets had regimented, tile-like panelling on the front and full-length pleats down the back.
Chevrons zoomed into the picture on brick-red and orange jumpers whose pattern was echoed in miniature on a silk skirt. The ziggy print zagged across the shoulders of a navy bomber jacket and a grey cardigan with an off-centre fastening.
Knits upended convention in different ways. A ribbed jumper came in a ‘diametric rib story’—in other words, with the wide wale of the ribbing akimbo on front and back. A tubular knit looked minimally ruffled.
It was the coats, however, that made the audience lean forward for a better view. A camel style had a collar lined in a nubby pale-blue fabric, like shorn sheepskin. Pink lapels enlivened a navy style, and baby blue made a burgundy coat even richer.
Sometimes these accents matched the dip-dyed ends of the models’ hair. Dalston’s Bleach salon has officially infiltrated the twinset crowd, adding several inches of red, lavender, blue or pink to stick-straight hairstyles. Chrissie Morris’s broken-mirror-heeled loafers underlined the new attitude with their general stompery.