Designer A-Z

Proenza Schouler

Autumn/Winter 2011

By Avril Mair

It's a bold statement to make so early in a season - but already it seems obvious that Proenza Schouler will be one of the defining shows this AW11.

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After all, it's not as if they don't have form in this: for the past year or so, the young duo has established their collection as one of NY fashion week's creative highs.

From tie-dye to neon, from deconstructed tweeds to dramatically printed deniM, their designs have already had serious impact. This time round the influence was Western - appearing all over the city and shaping up as a major trend - while Lazarro Hernandez and Jack McCollough's focus were their signature mixed prints, computer generated and hi-tech but made to look handcrafted and homespun. From pixellated trousers to heacily detailed knits and geometric velvet dresses, nearly every piece took advantage of technology.

Native American blankets collected on a road trip was the starting point for the show - ponyskin boots, fang necklaces and distressed suede boots reinforced the idea of the great West - but the reach was so much greater. From slim fitting trousers to tuxedo-inspired jackets and apron-fold skirts, the clothes themselves were truly brilliant. Look back at the end of this fashion month and they still will be. Bravo.