Courtney Love in the front row and tie-dye on the catwalk: these are not things you expect at a Proenza Schouler show.
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But Lazaro Hermandez and Jack McCollough swapped their usual careful construction for something much cooler and fresher this season. Inspired by the skaters and surfers of their youth, spring/summer 2010 was a glorious riot of colour and texture, all with an easy athletic influence. The first outfit set the tone: a punched leather racer back vest, worn with a skirt designed to look like a track jacket tied round the waist. From then on in, the references just kept piling up: colour-blocked track pants, shoes decorated with neon go-faster stripes, neoprene scuba tops, track jackets built into little shirtdresses. But this being Proenza Schouler, designers with a confidence that belies their years, there was nothing too literal about the collection. A tie-dye vest dress was trimmed at the bottom with plastic fringing. Tinsel peeped from the shoulders of a cocktail shift. Beads and feathers, fluid little ruffles and wild animal print all decorated evening dresses, which were short and cheeky, some with the duo’s signature bra top attached to a floaty babydoll. It was daring and experimental, yet desirable and beautifully put together. One of the week’s highlights, without a doubt.