Richard Nicoll delivers cool tailoring with an industrial twist for his 2013 autumn / winter menswear collection
The sparse industrial shell of an old but luxed-up sorting office was a fitting show space for a collection that had post-punk and No Wave (the influential New York underground art and music scene of the 1970s) at the root of its creation.
Much like the ‘upgraded’ show venue, this was No Wave and Post-Punk luxed-up in both fabrication and colour.
Nicoll started out with tone-on-tone blue tailoring that moved through greys into leather - all cut for ease, not restriction - with both sections punctuated with splatter paint effect pieces layered in between.
If these were modern wardrobe staples the designer was going for – he succeeded.
The spirit of Talking Heads front man David Byrne ran through this collection - a musician known for never letting his tailored suits get in the way of his physically demanding stage performances and a man, too, who liked his jumpsuits. Nicoll delivered both. Most notably cut in grey cashmere and teamed with grey white-soled loafers.
To the sound of Big New Prinz by The Falls, out came waffled angora knits and bolts of silver in the form of parkas, followed by eye-piercing pieces in 'safety' orange.
This, Nicoll's second only menswear collection, left the audience in no doubt that he will become as firm a favourite on the menswear schedule as he is on the womenswear circuit.