Roksanda rocked her natural flair for long languid colour
One of the eras being plundered in London this season is the 1970s and when it falls into the right hands, such as Roksanda Ilincic’s, it not only looks like the height of elegance, it makes you forget its retro origin.
Ilincic has always had a flare for the long, languid and sinuous – perhaps because she herself is blessed with such proportions – so the 1970s is a natural shoe-in for the designer.
She had been looking at Nikki de Saint Phalle, the French sculptor, painter and film maker and in particular the collars she favoured wearing, which appeared here in cobalt blue, orange and navy, poking over black-front dresses or blouses. Those strong shades, used throughout, had been inspired by the work of artist Josef Albers.
‘Colour has always been important in my design but this season I wanted to push it further than just colour-blocking,’ said Ilincic after showing her collection where black shapes sliced through brights. If the vivid colours she used – orange, yellow, red, purple, dusty pink, royal blue – were a metaphor for her confidence right now, she must be feeling pretty self-assured. And rightly so.
What Ilincic has a natural feel for is silhouette – here, there was nothing to disturb those bold patterns – no frill or ruffle – save the one frock in purplish-blue, a single scarlet shoe-lace bow at the neck, that flounced in long tiers to the floor. Supremely wearable modern art.