The designer has developed her sheer and see-through code into something more wearable but just as beautiful
Simone Rocha is a fast learner. In just four seasons she’s gone from conceptual transparencies and cerebral cuts to conceptual transparencies that you can walk in, work in, party in and relax in. They may be see-through but they’re going to sell like hot cakes.
‘Every season she leaps ahead even more,’ said the show’s stylist - and Simone’s good friend -Celestine Cooney. ‘She’s heaven to work with because she knows so firmly what she wants.’
And so, despite the greater commercial acumen in this show – the very walk-able plastic platform shoes, the drop-bell skirt suits that would look as good on a septuagenarian as they would on an East London hipster, the mass-appeal leather pieces – it was still writ large with Simone’s distinctive vision.
‘I was thinking about uniformity – about a grumpy adolescent being made to wear a uniform against her will,’ explained Rocha backstage, ‘Matching skirt suits and tailored shapes are really old and fusty, but when you mash it all up together with loads of interesting fabrics like plastic and Perspex, then it’s young again.’
The fabrics, indeed, were fascinating: from blown-up neon daisies made of embroidered organza to tiny embellished plastic flowers and from lick-able plastic overlay to hand-crocheted lurex, everything begged to be touched.
And worn. And layered and loved. Rocha has a clear vision to go with all those future-perfect fabrics. And she’s about to have a lot more people looking through her lens.