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Think of Sonia Rykiel and think of a rainbow of colour, those bright stripes that sell like hot cakes. So much so that the brand sold an 80% share to Fung Capital two weeks ago.

This autumn winter 2012 collection, the second with Scot April Crichton at the helm, was notable by its neutrals. Stripped-back navy trouser suits, biscuit coloured wools and bottle green shirt dresses: sometimes quiet colours shout louder than brights.

This being Rykiel, there were quirks of course. Take the cardigan skirt; button-through complete with pockets, or the overblown gingham print stretched over chiffon and square little breast pockets covering modesty on a sheer dress.

A collection to reposition Sonia Rykiel as a label for classic separates as much as that injection of fun.

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