Designer A-Z

Stella McCartney

Autumn/Winter 2010

By Carrie Gorman

Gossip-hounds paint the picture of fierce competitive rivalry between Stella McCartney and her former assistant Phoebe Philo, growing ever more ferorcious following Philo's rave reviews at Celine.

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The real story, however, is that these two British women have stormed the Paris schedule and produced the most coveted collections of the season so far.

McCartney's Autumn Winter 2010 collection, shown in the opulent surroundings of the Opera Garnier, was the morning after the Celine show and comparisons between their sharp, clean tailoring will no doubt be drawn. But in a season that is crying out for uncomplicated elegance, there is room enough for both.

The show opened with a witty soundtrack of a faux Tiger Woods leaving that panicked voicemail for mistress Jaimee Grubbs. The fashion industry isn't long on laughs, so this was a welcome start. And you'll be pleased to hear that the collection that followed couldn't have been less like those seen on the backs of his lady friends.

Cleam, linear cashmere coats, short swinging shifts with patch pockets (a noteworthy a/w trend) and quilted jackets with detachable hoods provided functional luxury. Oversized fishermen's knits and burnt orange high-neck dresses were effortless.

For evening, huge sequins are overlaid by organza and sheer slit seams give a glimpse of flesh. T-shaped silk long dresses given a low draped back. All worn with pointed kitten-heels.