Designer A-Z

Theyskens Theory

Autumn/Winter 2012

By Jim Shi

It should come as no surprise that Olivier Theyskens, in a few short seasons, has carved himself a path at Theyskens’ Theory—one that is the coolest of the cool tempered with a resounding sophistication. Iconic for his Goth aesthetic, Theyskens steered clear of that motif, instead amping up the glamour and, dare we say, colour.

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While the killer cut blazers, cotton separates and slouchy pants all resounded loudly, it was the well-tailored gold tweed coats and jackets that instantly became some of the best moments at the New York shows; the metallic sweaters and ombré effects on denim and velvet (another signature), meanwhile, all merged in beautiful symphony. For evening, Theyskens delve into a Victorian-esque romantic party mode that recalled his earlier work at Nina Ricci and Rochas. The fabric on the dresses were a stiff polyester and not satin, resulting in that hammered look.