It may be Spring Summer 2013. But don’t expect Olivier Theyskens to lighten up.
The show venue was pitch black. The floor where the models walked was also painted glossy black. And the clothes that went down that runway? Predominantly black.
Theyskens' Theory has moved on since the Belgian designer took the helm in Spring 2011. Back then, it was about putting the huge US brand Theory into a high fashion context. Nowadays, it’s all about Theyskens and he isn’t playing safe any more.
The first look – a double-breasted suit with slim trousers – had his authority stamped all over it. As the looks went by, that impression became more overwhelming. Wide leather pants with deep pleats at the waist, a waxed linen coat dress with extended shoulders, a swirling cape: the colours moved from black to navy then a kind of icy blue, but were never less uncompromising.
The final looks had real beauty: beaded and sequined dresses that shimmered in the glare of the photographers’ flashes.
It’s worth noting one more thing. The models all wore short, wavy wigs – pretty much the same hair as Theyskens himself. Sometimes you’ve got to get the point across.