Ah, Donatella. So sexy, so certain, so self-assured… and this season, so right.

Versace reasserted its place in the fashion hierarchy for spring/summer 2010 with a show that offered up a bold definition of femininity. The days of Linda, Cindy, Naomi and Christy are long gone, but the designer chose models for her catwalk that asserted those 1980s ideals of confidence and curves. It needs a woman to wear clothes like these – and here she was, all long leggy limbs and flowing hair, strutting in platform sandals to a disco soundtrack. ‘It was brilliant!’ enthused designer Christopher Kane, sitting with his sister Tammy in the front row. ‘The colours were so effervescent and everything just looked fresh and modern, while being undeniably Versace.’ Kane is in Milan to relaunch the brand’s baby line, Versus, this Sunday, and it was hard not to look at this collection and wonder about his touch. Tight and bright, full of psychedelic prints – sometimes overlaid with see-through plastic - it looked back to the heyday of Gianni himself while reworking those sexy signatures with wit and charm. Perforated leather, chain mail, super-short skirts and super-slinky suiting: it was all here, with a generous helping of cleavage and corsets. Beautifully constructed, too. For the finale, Donatella joined her girls in a colourful tableau, draped in chiffon and looking every bit as iconic as Versace ever did.

 
 
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