We expected an all-gown show from Vionnet, but walked into the presentation venue to find models strolling past in paneled tunics over ultra-narrow trousers. The new Vionnet woman gets dressed in the daytime too, in street-sleek separates and soft, scarf-draped leather jackets.

‘A modern woman today cannot be only about evening,’ Barbara Croce, one-half of the label’s new design team along with twin sister Lucia, said after the presentation. ‘We wanted to give you a vision, a total work wardrobe, so the tailored looks are very important.’

But not to worry—gowns made a strong showing later in the line-up. Bias cuts and draping were in full delectable force. Mosaic-like mirror embellishment twinkled from shoulder to thigh on one blush-toned stunner.

If some fluttery bits and additions could have done with more editing, that’s fine—this was the Croces’ first collection for the brand. And they have the best possible muse guiding their hands.

‘Our reference is really Madeleine Vionnet. She was a visionary with a really modern mind,’ Barbara Croce said. ‘We’re trying to analyse the archive… and translate it in a way that looks to tomorrow.’

 
 
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