A/W 2010 : The Rising Stars

He may have graduated barely a year ago but David Koma has already found his way into the fashion spotlight. This is the man responsible for Cheryl Cole’s much debated sculptural dress on X-Factor (which then instantly sold out at Browns), and who has also found fans in Beyonce, Megan Fox and Lady Gaga. So we’re hoping for an impressive front row.
The Georgian-born designer left Central Saint Martins last year and his graduate collection won him the Harrods Design Award (which has previously been given to Christopher Kane). And the accolades keep coming - his spring collection of eye-popping, bright dresses was rewarded with the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Merit Award. His February show promises to be one of the hot tickets of London Fashion Week. We can’t wait.

Buzz surrounding Sophie Théallet has been steadily building over the last few seasons, and reached a climax when she won CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award in New York back in October. The French born, Brooklyn based designer started her career at Jean Paul Gaultier before working as Azzedine Alaia’s right-hand woman for ten years – so she’s well qualified for the role of star designer.
Last February she caused a stir by choosing a line-up of solely black models, a move that she maintains was not political. But that aside, she’s been grabbing headlines thanks to her signature style of laid-back, easy chic that - thanks to her extensive couture experience - is perfectly crafted and finished. For autumn, rumour has it that she’s been working on a line of knitwear, and that she has once again teamed up with Manolo Blahnik for her shoes. Oh, and keep your eyes peeled for Rupert Everett on the front row – she’s best friends with the actor.

Christopher Raeburn is fast becoming the accidental hero of the ethical fashion scene. His beautiful parkas and raincoats are made from recycled parachutes and other military fabrics, and have become a fashion obsession for those in the know. But with his focus firmly on design and functionality, the eco friendly slant to his label is incidental – just the way it should be.

Originally a menswear designer, Raeburn has now - thankfully for us - branched in to womenswear, and his creations have been snapped up by the discerning buyers of Browns and Liberty, the ultimate seal of approval. Make sure you get your hands on one of spring’s Jelly bags, this season’s essential. For A/W 2010 he has been given NEWGEN sponsorship by the British Fashion Council, definitively placing him on the one-to-watch list.

Much of what makes Naeem Khan’s eponymous label such a success comes courtesy of his family. He grew up in India, where both his father and grandfather were famous for dressing the cream of society in beautifully embroidered and ornate dresses. Add in the fact that his very first job was as an assistant to the legendary Halston, and you can see why the label is causing a stir.
Established in 2003, Naeem Khan has been the go-to label for red carpet dressing over the past few years – Eva Longoria, Beyonce and Michelle Obama have all stepped out wearing his glamorous, intricate gowns. Last season, however, he branched out to include more day pieces, albeit of the extravagant type, and there’s a whole host of impeccably dressed fashion fans who can’t wait to see what he does next.

Hayden-Harnett is the creation of husband and wife design duo Ben Harnett and Toni Hacker. It started off as an accessories label, offering up just five different handbags, and has gained such a following that the brand now encompasses a much-coveted ready-to-wear line, as well as its staple bags, shoes and jewellery. The key to its success? Blending right-on-trend style with easy-to-wear function.
Die-hard fans have seen the brand’s aesthetic evolve over its five years from a boho vibe to something more pared down and simple. Thanks to its collaboration with Target – the Topshop of the US – the brand has now gone stellar stateside. It’s only a matter of time before the Brit fashion pack catch on too.

The list of lauded milliners within the fashion industry is disappointingly short, but Nasir Mazhar is about to join the exclusive ranks of Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy. And revolutionise the world of hats while he’s at it.
It’s fair to say that his pieces are not designed with Ascot in mind. They’re outlandish and avant-garde. And if you recognise his name it’s because, while the former hair stylist has been bubbling under on the London Fashion Scene for some time, he hit the headlines last year when Lady Gaga sported his Orb head dress for an appearance on Oprah.
This season he’s getting his very own catwalk show – he’s taking part in the Fashion East show at London Fashion Week, which last year attracted Victoria Beckham to its front row. And although it’s unlikely that his pieces will be hitting a store near you any time soon, he’s sure to become a firm favourite with fashion editors and the A-list alike.