S/S 2011 : The Rising Stars

Another Central Saint Martins graduate, Emilio de la Morena has worked at Rafael Lopez and Jonathan Saunders. Four seasons into his eponymous label he has be come to go-to for fashion insiders in search of the perfect party dress. The Spanish designer has earned himself a reputation for creating bold, bright (he’s not a man afraid of colour), sexy mini dresses that strike the perfect balance between feminine and edgy.
Once upon a time Emilio was a sculptor. He came to London to study business, fell in love with the fashion scene - and the rest is history. He hasn’t completely abandoned his roots though - you don’t have to look too closely and the folds, pleats and drapes of his dresses to see that the world of sculpture is what inspires him.

One look at Felicity Brown’s pieces is enough to convince you of the fact that her background in textile design. Beautifully constructed they may be, but there’s no denying that the focus is on the fabric, the print and the feel.
Brown has worked for some of the biggest labels around - Lanvin, Mulberry and Alberta Ferretti - but it was her brother and now business partner who persuaded her to launch her own. Having never made a dress herself she boldly set about transforming her fabrics into garments. The resulting debut collection, all breath-takingly beautiful silk pleats and hand painted dyes, wowed fashion insiders - it was instantly snapped up by Liberty and 10 Corso Como and earned her NewGen sponsorship for the up-coming season. We predict that her stand-out dresses will become red carpet regualrs in the not-too distant future.

Firmly established as a favourite in the realm of men’s wear, James Anderson finally turned his attention to the ladies last season - a decision apparently taken just five weeks before the show. However last minute it may have been, his first foray into the world of women's wear has been a hit.
Anderson originally wanted to be an actor, even travelling to Washington to follow his dream. But in the end it was costumes that caught his eye and he took up a place at Central Saint Martins, styling the likes of Rufus Wainwright while he studied. He’s hit the London Fashion Week schedule since September 2007, and, although it may have been made for men, we’ve been lusting after his creations - especially his accessories - ever since. His women’s collection has a thrown together, borrowed from the boys feel, and fits neatly into London’s sexy-cool vibe. We’re itching to see his second try.

Anthony Vaccarello has steadily been building himself a stylish fan base over the past few seasons with his cutting-edge and super-sexy pieces. But last season he really caught the fashion world’s attention, thanks in no small part to roping in friend Lou Doillon to model for his look book.
The Belgian designer won the Hyeres prize in France with his graduate collection. He has worked for Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and set up his own eponymous label back in 2008. Vaccerello’s signature style is cool with serious attitude.- graphic shapes, cut-outs, layered panels and armour plating mean that his pieces are sure to make a statement. He’s soon to become your new favourite designer.

The buzz that Hakaan caused in London last season was matched across the channel by Pedro Lourenco. The big difference? Far from being an established designer, Lourenco was a 19 year old Brazilian making his debut on the Paris Fashion Week schedule. Nonetheless, he managed to secure Brana Wolf, editor at large for US Harper's Bazaar, as his show stylist and it was produced by international PR company KCD.
With two of Sao Paulo’s biggest designers as parents, fashion legend has it that Lourenco was already sewing as a toddler. He’s been designing his own collections, as well as his mother’s diffusion line, since he was 13, and his parent’s factory produced the pieces for his autmun/winter 2010 collection. His label isn’t just about buzz though - editor's were genuinely impressed by his beautifully cut, geometric leather pieces and he's predicted to go far.

Remember the white tiered cape that Lady Gaga wore at this year’s Brit Awards teamed with a massive blonde beehive and lace mask? It was custom made for the outlandish pop star by Francesco Scognamiglio. She also sported one of his pieces in her ‘Alejandro’ video, but if you’re thinking that her love of the Italian designer must mean that his pieces are only for the faint-hearted then think again.
Scognamilglio’s eponymous label has been established for ten years but until now he’s remained a cult Milan favourite. Thanks to Gaga’s interest and a nomination for this year’s Andam award, however, fashion fans across the globe are starting to sit up and pay attention to his bold, sexy and glamorous pieces. Make sure you check out the Alaia-inspired cut-out dresses and feathered minis from his autumn collection.