The Rising Stars AW12 : The Rising Stars

Paisley print is packing a serious punch this spring and although established designers Stella McCartney and Jil Sander used twisted teardrops on their spring 12 collections, among the rising stars it was JW Anderson who tapped into paisley’s patterned appeal. Designer behind the label, Jonathan Anderson, draws on menswear inspired cuts and simple separates and by far the most worn story within his breakout spring 12 collection was his paisley printed trouser and sleeveless top sets. We can’t wait to see what shape his autumn 12 endeavour takes.

Take a look at JW Anderson's SS12 collection

ELLE caught up with Phoebe English a few weeks before making her London Fashion Week debut, and her team were working furiously in her elf-sized studio. Talking about her accession from Central St Martin’s MA graduate to Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award winner, she says, “I never for a second contemplated why I was doing it, it just felt like the natural place for me to be.” English is a knitwear designer by study, so her use of fabrication is paramount with yarn constructions and weaving featuring heavily in her work. In fact she is best known for her MA graduate collection where she wove weave, or wig hair into dress like structures.  “With the MA collection I was working with frenetics…chaotic types of movement... with this collection I’m trying to go in a more fluid and feminine direction.”

When we heard that a young Australian designer had the self-assurance to secure the imposing Sydney Opera House as the venue for his spring 12 show, we had to find out more and shortly afterwards we got the nod that Lee was going to make his London Fashion Week debut. So here he is; a 26-year old master of commanding cut and structure, who come autumn 12 is planning to woo us with his use of playful proportions. It’s exciting to see this Antipodean designer making his first foray on the London schedule, dealing with the opposing seasons and time zones head-on, and propelling himself on to his first European stage.

Utilitarian, sustainable, masculine, enduring –there are a series of useful adjectives that can be used to accurately describe the Christopher Raeburn aesthetic. Fundamentally, if you secretly wish you dressed like your boyfriend (and your boyfriend is really trendy and loves a directional piece of outerwear), then tap into Raeburn’s collection for your practical, yet androgynous style solution. The label won The British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent Menswear last year, and womenswear is a serious and developing part of the label’s business. So for a playful take on feminine functionality look no further.

Check out Christopher Raeburn's SS12 collection

Fashion Forward sponsorship winner James Long has most of the industry, including his Fashion East mentor Lulu Kennedy on tenterhooks. He is part of the new wave of menswear designers who have diversified into womenswear (what are they trying to tell us?) and his efforts thus far have been welcomed by the front row. Last season he riffed on a few themes; ultra-glossy python print finishes, heaving sheer sleeves, fringing, pleating and embellishment; all with a dash of high octane razzmatazz, delivered with the finesse and cool that only a rising star can possess.

Japanese origami-esque folds and high, restrictive Victoriana necklines were always going to be an unlikely blend, but this Floridian designer pulled it off. Nielsen worked on the shop floor of Vivienne Westwood for a while before breaking into designing, and she undoubtedly absorbed some influences during her time there. Waist-synching shapes and bust enhancing cuts are key to her work, plus the spotlight usually shines on the neckline of her designs. There is an aristocratic air to her creations, but fresh-feeling cut and drape techniques give her collections the appearance of a contemporary couture.

Check out Corrie Nielsen's SS12 collection