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Another designer just let loose from Central Saint Martins, Maarten Van Der Horst is part Dutch, part Indonesian and uses both bits of his heritage to influence his aesthetic. Example? His graduate collection combined the holiday-classic, the Hawaiian print shirt, with colourful vintage petticoats and caught the eagle-eye of fashion star-spotter Lulu Kennedy – hence his spot on this season’s Fashion East line-up.
Maarten cites his influences as director John Waters (the man behind cult classics Hairspray and Pink Flamingos) and transvestites, whipping up a sort of DIY-drag queen if you will. But in a wearable way. Intrigued? Us too. London’s fashion pack eagerly anticipate seeing what pours out of the duo’s imagination next.
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The name Marco de Vincenzo may not ring bells yet but chances are you’ve admired his handiwork – he spent eight years working as an accessory designer for Fendi. While he’s still working as a consultant for the heavyweight brand, it’s with his eponymous label that he’s really making waves.
In 2009 he won Italy’s ‘Who’s On Next’ prize for his couture collection and he went on to present his debut ready-to-wear creations in Milan the following season. Industry insiders have him pegged as a rising star of the Italian capital’s fashion scene – not known as the easiest city to crack - and his signature ladylike style, infused with just the right amount of glamour is winning a greater following every season.
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Thought knitwear was practical but dull? Enter the world of Sibling and your mind will soon be changed. Originally a men’s only brand, the Sibling duo made their first foray into the world of womenswear last year with a much coveted collection of sweaters for Topshop – and now they’re focussing more attention on our wardrobes having bagged themselves NEWGEN sponsorship for their ladies line.
Despite the clever name the label’s trio of designers aren’t, in fact, related – they’re friends Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery. Their influences are eclectic to say the least – rumour has it that the spring 2012 collection is inspired by dodgems, waltzers and hot dogs – and they’re not afraid of bold colours and eye-popping patterns. But don’t make the mistake of thinking that their pieces are all for play – there are some seriously stylish knits to choose from in the boys collections, and we can’t wait to see what they whip up for us girls.
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Take a brief scroll through Wes Gordon’s two collections and you’d never guess that the designer behind them was just 24 years old. The American youngster is top on the ones to watch list Stateside, attracting some of the biggest names in fashion to see his offerings.
But then Wes is equipped with some stellar transatlantic experience. He grew up in Atlanta, Georgia and studied at Central Saint Martins, wisely dividing his summers between interning at Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford (so that’s where the polish comes from) and partying with London’s cool kids. He’s already stocked in big name stores – Saks and Harrods both snapped up his debut collection – and his grown-up classic and seriously chic pieces are making their way in to the most fashion savvy wardrobes. We predict big things to come.