Catwalk

Dolce & Gabbana

There were almond blossom trees at the foot of the catwalk whose delicate flowers made their way onto fine dresses, crisp silk coats, hooped earrings, deep bikini briefs, shoes, platforms, and the models’ hair.

The fervour with which Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana embellish their collections is astounding. Every piece will feature a print or surface texture. Every outfit comes further embellished with a bag, a belt, earrings, bangles, a necklace or an interesting shoe. There is a lot to take in, yet the overall effect always feels concise: you couldn’t mistake their intentions, or their clothes, for anyone else’s. Even if you peeled away the orgy of decoration. Because their elegant silhouettes remain, season after season, the same. This is why their signature is so strong. The freshness comes through the detail at which they are expert.

Take the ancient Sicilian temple prints of Greek ruins that opened the show, displayed on a simple organza dress; the columns of these monuments were used as heels on shoes. Their archaeological dig also brought up ancient gold coins – used big and bright in gold as boxer belts, hand painted on soft organza or gold leather, on the straps of gladiator sandals or large wooden block wedges. Along with prints of traditional glazed pottery came polka dots – simple, white on navy. And black lace. Both served to break up the lavish gold.

A new departure was the use of glossy alpaca that came in powerful brights in short skirts and tops – these added more texture, unnecessarily so. They were sometimes worn with wide stiff lacquered leather skirts in equally potent shades that didn’t seem to belong, jarring with the pretty almond blossom lightness of the rest of the show.

When, at the end, every model stepped out in gold lace, it was a heart-lifting moment. And apt too: this collection deserved a gold star.

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