Donna Karan

After the hard-edged pinstripes of this current season, Donna Karan had a total eclipse of the heart. This new collection was ballet-shaped and softly shaded, with only three final black dresses to signify business as usual.

The rest was made up of draped and folded pieces that nipped in at the waist then unfurled towards the knee or down. Though the models wore Perspex hairbands and shockingly pink eye makeup, the overwhelming impression was of languidity and ease.

There was a lot of play on texture – a sheer dress woven with pearls and a kind of macramé, raffia fringing on a canvas coat, skirts made from a kind of crumpled cotton – but it was, essentially, a romantic vision with the clothes to suit.