Emilio De La Morena

He thrives at a pretty cocktail dress, hasn’t done a pair of trousers since 2007 and has dressy fans in Olivia Palermo and Julia Restoin-Rotfeld, faithfully perched front row.

The show notes said spring summer 2012 was moving towards daywear. If by this he means the slim cashmere polo shirts tucked in to bright, transparent mini-skirts which could easily pass for cocktail hour, we’re sold. De la Morena is clearly catering for his upscale Palermo-type audience who wear 6 inches at breakfast.

An abstract, psychedelic paint-drip print inspired by sculptor Michael Lucero scrawled down the sides and fronts of body-con dresses and underneath gauze layers. Panels of crepe were built up in geometric formations and chiffon corsages added a 3D effect to shoulders and bib fronts. Some of the dresses had gaping cut-out sections – backless and cut close to the bust - which didn’t match girlishness of the aesthetic, we could have done with them filled in. But otherwise very solid and a go-to for a natty frock.