Haider Ackermann

Pounding drums, a black gravel catwalk, the slow march of a tribal model army: we know what to expect when we arrive at a Haider Ackermann show and this season was no exception.

Perhaps the surprise was in the deep rich colours for spring summer. But then this whole season has been a reality check in terms of wintry clothes on the catwalk with most designers simply responding to increasingly early store delivery dates.

Ackermann’s beautiful collection was a case in point. His long coat-jackets in shades of black, burnt brown, bronze and peacock blue will look extremely desirable hanging on rails in January. The master colourist also infused his collection with copper - for skinny trousers - and deep purple for billowing long glossy pleat skirts. For all his lush layers - outsized trouser suits, full skirts and sweeping dresses that trailed behind – there was also air-light transparency. Models naked torsos were exposed – hardly a modern move, in fact an absolute no-no in this day and age – with the sheerest transparent tulle, cut into vests, t-shirts or shroud-like dresses over leather shorts or narrow silk trousers.

There was still a lot to love here – the simplified Japanese tailoring that is now so much a part of his DNA and those gorgeous long skirts in iridescent silks the colour of antiquated gold, but on the whole this collection lacked the cohesiveness that we have come to expect from the very talented Mr Ackermann.