Daniela Helayel’s signature maxis and glamorous evening dresses are taking a back seat next season, according to the muted and directional collection that the usually-flamboyant Brazilian designer sent down the Somerset House runway tonight.

The Issa DNA was there in long, kaftan dresses and jersey maxis that tied at the waist but these came layered over rollneck jumpers, or swamped with ’70s-style shearling coats or long-line, printed wool coats that made outerwear a strong addition. There was a new focus on separates: witness the loosely-cut a black velvet trouser suit, and silky, pussy-bow blouses tucked into brown suede pants.

A global traveller feel ran throughout, with necklines embellished with fringing and mirrors and topped off with wide-brimmed hats trimmed with ultra-long pheasant feathers, while a palette of mustard, teal, chocolate and burgundy gave everything an autumnal, classically 70s vibe.

Which meant we couldn’t help but wonder: a certain royal Issa fan has recently shown a leaning towards an Abigails’ Party/Farah Fawcett aesthetic. And a black cocoon coat encrusted with beading would be just the thing for a new mum to wear to a red carpet premiere...