Catwalk

Marni

‘I wanted to clean up. Make a fresh, light collection,’ said Consuelo Castiglione of her Marni show.

And she did just that. It was as if she’d spring-cleaned the vision – taken away the layers, reduced the number of fabrics, pushed back the quirkiness - and in so doing, got to the essence of Marni.

A white dress said it all – simple but artfully cut so as to make it no ordinary white dress; apparently plain from the front then standing away from the body in gathers at the back.

The Marni-isms were there from the off, in the riot of optical checks, inspired, she said, by Anni Albers, the German-American textile and printmaker of the Bauhaus period – but the silhouettes were spare: a neat belted coat, a skirt that sprayed outwards below the knee and simple tops with wide sleeves. The Marni eccentricity focused exclusively on the shoes – wooden platforms with a curving silver heel that resembled sculpture.

Aside from the three looks emblazoned with large, childlike florals (but again in stringent shapes), the collection – in aqua, grey, orange, black and white – delivered Marni in its purest form. Perfectly chiming with the season’s big message: simple looks strong.

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