Michael Kors

Michael Kors showed a collection of crisp spring looks that wouldn't appear out of place in a Cinecittà production about an American schoolteacher who found love in 1950s Rome.

With Katie Holmes and Kate Mara looking on from the front row, he opened with daywear that met at ‘the juxtaposition of sportif and romantic’, meaning: white linen skirts and flower-embroidered sundresses with swingy appeal. Grey crocheted dresses and cashmere briefs. Peekaboo crepe dresses with pansy prints that vied for attention with brown and green leaf-printed linen looks, many with keyholes over the midriff.

A styling note: Kors finished many outfits with overlong caramel leather belts, tucked through themselves to make a create tail. It underscored just how much better almost everything looks with a defined waist, but breezily, unfussily so.

There were also fur stoles, cashmere cardigans and a few substantial coats—surprising in a spring collection, but commercially savvy. The closing looks were firmly in warm-weather territory. Karlie Kloss and Karen Elson swished in ruched, stretch-jersey gowns that looked as slinky as swimwear, but dressy enough for the “Come to dinner on my yacht” set. It was upbeat, clean, and totally Kors.