Moschino Cheap & Chic

It may only be day two of London Fashion Week but already the spirit of this LFW season is clear: Punk, or at least the idea of punk, in the form of some of its most memorable style signatures - fetish straps and graffiti, liberal use of leopard print, fluoro and wipe-clean vinyl – have all been spotted on the runway today.

Not least at Moschino Cheap and Chic, where creative director Rossella Jardini and designer Francesca Rubino, served up Milan Punk. That is to say, a slick, shiny, Italian commercialised punkette who, while she would never be the slightest bit interested in sticking two manicured fingers up at the establishment, would certainly enjoy applying the occasional slick of black lipstick and tottering about on stomping shoes with mirror block heels and shiny fetish straps up to the knee.

She wore a palette of black and white (the late Franco Moschino’s signature colour-combo) in graffiti print bowed-at-the-neck mini dresses or short sharp pinafores with puffy hems. You could see how much she loves a big marabou chubby – there were quite a few - in fact any coat with a frizzy fur collar is right up her street. Whereas when it comes to leopard print she prefers to show off her body – in a negligee, perhaps, a reed-thin tuxedo or just a really, really short dress. If there’s one colour she’s into this season, it’s pink – sugary pink, bubblegum pink, neon pink, cerise, magenta…

What she lacks in irreverence and f*** you attitude, she certainly makes up for in polish and long bare legs.

This is the third time the Milanese label has shown in London and again, it worked. There is something about the way this brand faithfully captures Franco Moschino’s ironic take on haute fashion that chimes with London Fashion Week and the British sensibility. At the same time, showing at LFW appears to have re-focused Moschino Cheap and Chic into upping its game. It's a win win situation.