Catwalk

Paul Smith

Working from the premise that colour makes people happy and we all need a bit of that in our lives, tonight’s Paul Smith show - framed dramatically in the cavernous halls of the Tate Britain - offered hit after hit of the bright stuff as the ever-cheery designer colour-blocked his way into the new season.

Suiting, relaxed and mannish, was a strong as ever and updated in fuchsia, violet, orange and teal.

References elsewhere were mixed. At one turn came a ladylike blouse with painfully-precise ruffles stitched down the sleeves; at another, a sportswear vibe pervaded by way of a pull-on suede coat with go-faster stripes zipping up the seams. The sheer silk blouses, one of which came with overlaid with a pink breast-plate, were positively directional. There was a painterly print in both red and blue that splashed its way across coat linings and collarless jackets, and one of Art Deco-style architecture that adorned metallic party pants and cocktail dresses.

Was it cohesive? No. Will Paul Smith fans love it? Of course.

David Bowie’s Let’s Dance played the designer down the catwalk, aptly indeed – there’s a party coming to Paul Smith soon, and we’re all invited.

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