Catwalk

Roland Mouret

Mouret said he wanted to capture the spirit of his twenties, when he was having a high old time partying at Le Palace. ‘I wanted to bring a new attitude, revisit my youth,’ he said.

The result was minimalism meets scorching hot sporty sex. Mouret is at his best when he takes a woman’s body and caresses it; he has an innate understanding of our curves, our arms, our bottoms and breasts. He does sexy clothes like nobody else.

But he also breathes in the fashion ether and oxygenates his collections with the latest and most relevant developments: Minimalism – the current stripped-back spirit - was at work here, presented in bold silhouettes, including the key new shoulder shape – flat, broad and sharp – that appeared on his opening tomato-red jacket or another in white and worn with short shorts.

Sport, another big story this season, was worked into scuba pencil skirts and knitted tubes that hit precisely below the knee or second-skin tops with origami folds in crisp black and white. He also used a fabric that looked like glossy wet leather, which he tried to explain backstage: ‘It’s basically mud on fabric, cooked under the moonlight,’ he said, then compared it to the printing of a photo-negative.

The results were smooth, clinging, sexy and only added to the sporty vibe. As did the music - Esta Noche by Azaelia Banks was pumped out along with his current favourite band, Kindness. But whatever current signals his antennae pick up, it looks unmistakably Roland – even when his signature eveningwear is absent from the show (it will of course be offered in the showroom and no doubt sell a storm) – but it’s that pure elegance and undiluted sense of what his women want that makes a great Roland Mouret collection. Which this was.

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