Catwalk

Theyskens' Theory

What, no Goth? No dark priestesses in floor-dragging chiffon? No all-black palette, leavened with touches of white?

Nope. For his latest Theyskens Theory collection, Olivier Theyskens took proceedings in a different direction: short.

The opening look, a longish, mushroom-brown blazer with a pert, peaked collar over leather shorts, set the silhouette for the remainder of the show. It was a case of big blazers and roomy jumpers over flippy little skirts, or more of those winter shorts.

The good news is that these proportions showed off Theyskens’ glossy knee-high boots to great effect. The bad news—at the risk of seeming overly practical—is that your knees will just have to be cold. Theyskens’ one concession to climactic concerns was to layer second pairs of shorts in contrast-textured fabrics underneath the main pair.

Backstage, Theyskens said the collection was his exploration of futurism. That came through in novel fabric treatments and one ultramodern standout, a carapace-like dress of top-stitched white leather, or pleather, or something that held a stiff, away-from-the-body shape.

Really though, this was a show characterised by individual, real-life-ready pieces. Like the high-low hemline jumpers that fell into soft tails in the back. And the blazers. Even those shorts could work, with one small modification of which we’re sure Mr Theyskens would approve: just add tights.

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