Catwalk

Viktor & Rolf

Front row at Viktor and Rolf sat Jessica Chastain and Ellen Von Unwerth - a sweetheart and a rebel, the perfect complimentary muses for the Dutch duo's AW13 collection.

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoering were in a more subdued mood this season, so there were no pyrotechnics and bullet-hole ball gowns, instead a simple play of opposites that distilled their combined skills as designers into a simple message in black and white.

'We are always interested in pursuing a play of opposites,' explained the designers, 'so this season we had the rebel who wants some action and the other girl wanted to be pretty.'

The 'other girl' came first: preppy in tennis jumpers and mini skirts so short they were barely more than a frill at the bottom of a long line top. The bow - that stalwart of girly girl wardrobes the world over - featured strongly: here as a sleeve in a one-shouldered top, there puffed up in a skater skirt. They were voluminous and ubiquitous.

The rebel without a cause meanwhile wore skinny suits that were ripped and torn, tuxedo shirts with holes at the elbows and on the back, and jackets that looked as though she'd had a fight with a barbed wire fence.

There was no bride at the end - just a simple black asymmetric gown, slit to the thigh like the rebel would wear, with a bow sleeve for the sweetheart. An ambiguous end to a show whose lack of great drama will in itself have left an ambiguous question mark.

Loading...