Helmut Lang was the king of cool Nineties minimalism, who retired from fashion at the height of his powers after being bought out by the Prada group.
Yet his influence was all over the catwalk this season.
Strict tailoring? Sculpted dresses? A bit of bondage thrown in? The nineties influence was everywhere, in pitch black, sludgy beige or joyful bursts of pink.
Designers from Givenchys Riccardo Tisci to Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein to Raf Simons at Jil Sander and the talented young Londoner Richard Nicoll all found inspiration in the understated and perfectly-proportioned.
Working women should be cheering this look will mean theres plenty of simple-but-cool summer staples to invest in.
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