The Ultimate Guide To Which Designers Are Where

Because fashion month is officially here

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As Roxane Gay said, 'the world changes faster than we can fathom in ways that are complicated'.

She was talking about feminism. But given the rapid turnover of its most revered design figures, it isn't too much of a stretch to apply the same sentiment to the fashion industry.

In recent times, six of the industry's biggest brands have lost - and gained - creative directors for one reason or another.

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Some have been dumped by houses in which they left an indelible mark, others dumped a house themselves, and at least one came upon a mutual agreement with their bosses to leave.

So who are the dearly departed and who are their replacements?

Read on for the ultimate guide, though this is the fourth time we've had to update it...

JIL SANDER

so proud... #lukemeier #oamc

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Set to debut their first women's SS18 collection this year, the German based label has teamed up with previous Dior Co-Creative director Lucie Meier and head designer of Supreme Luke Meier to create a new line. There had been whispers prior to the announcement that Jacquemeus may take the post, however with the couple taking to the post with immediate affect, it's safe to say all bets are off. Thrilled with their impending role the couple stated; "We feel proud and honored to join this beautiful brand. To be able to work on this side by side makes this opportunity even more special to us."

PUCCI

... #MSGM

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Yet another fashion house is playing designer musical chairs as Emilio Pucci recently announced Massimo Giorgetti, creative director for the house is set to part ways with the brand after less than 2 years in the position to focus on his brand MSGM. Along with the announcement Giorgetti stated "This experience with Emilio Pucci, one of the most representative and historic brands in fashion, was an inspiring journey, which has also contributed to my professional growth". Word as to who is set to replace the creative director is yet to be revealed.


HELMUT LANG

Helmut Lang have snagged half of the Hood By Air duo, Shayne Oliver, to create a new collection for the brand to debut this November. The hushed rumours that HBA we're coming to an end after cancelling their Paris Fashion Week show, have now been fuelled as both Oliver and Leilah Weinraub have decided to focus on other projects.


GIVENCHY

HAPPY BIRTHDAY K TO THE K - THROWBACK TO IBIZA AND US NEVER TOO FAR DAY AND NIGHT #loveyou @katemossagency

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Having spent 12 years as creative director, Ricardo Tisci revealed earlier this month that he would be parting ways with the historic fashion house. Speculation has been whizzing around as to who is next in line to fill his shoes. However it has since been announced that Clare Waight Keller former Chloé creative director, is to resume the post.

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CHLOÉ

In the middle of the next one already #prefall17 @chloe

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With recent news that Clare Waight Keller has decided not to renew her contract as Chloé's Creative Director, it's only natural that the fashion industry should be awash with rumours about her replacement. Bets are currently placed on Nicolas Ghesquière's second-in-command at Louis Vuitton, Natacha Levi-Ramsay.

DIOR

When Dior appointed Raf Simons its creative director in 2012, he ushered in a new chapter for the brand in which the flamboyance of the John Galliano years became a distant memory.

As testament to the significance of this occasion, his first show for the house was attended by many of his industry peers: Donatella Versace, Christopher Kane, Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs and Ricardo Tisci among others were all in the audience. A series of critically adored collections (and visually arresting sets) followed.

But in 2015 the round of musical chairs resumed and Simons announced he was leaving the house to focus on his own line - and life.

As we now know, his replacement turned out to be Maria Grazia Chiuri.

While she's already demonstrated a distinctly feminist vision for her new employer, we've yet to see what Simons has in store for his: Calvin Klein.

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CALVIN KLEIN

Calvin Klein, Inc. today announced the appointment of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer of the brand, effective immediately. ⠀ Mr. Simons will lead the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein Platinum, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home brands. As part of his role as Chief Creative Officer, Mr. Simons will oversee all aspects of Design, Global Marketing and Communications, and Visual Creative Services. Mr. Simons’ first collections will debut for the Fall 2017 season. ⠀ The appointment of Mr. Simons as Chief Creative Officer marks the implementation of Calvin Klein’s new global creative strategy, announced in April 2016, to unify all Calvin Klein brands under one creative vision. The strategy comes as part of a global evolution of the Calvin Klein brand, which began with the reacquisition of the Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear businesses in 2013. As Calvin Klein looks to grow the brand to $10 billion in global retail sales, this new leadership is intended to further strengthen the brand’s premium positioning worldwide and pave the way for future long-term global growth. ⠀ The arrival of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer signifies a momentous new chapter for Calvin Klein,” said Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc. “Not since Mr. Klein himself was at the company has it been led by one creative visionary, and I am confident that this decision will drive the Calvin Klein brand and have a significant impact on its future. Raf’s exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.” ⠀ As part of the creative strategy for the apparel and accessories business, Calvin Klein also announced the hire of Pieter Mulier as Creative Director, reporting directly to Mr. Simons. Mr. Mulier will be responsible for executing Mr. Simons' creative and design vision for all men’s and women’s apparel and accessories lines within the Calvin Klein brand.

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In a move that aimed to unite 'all Calvin Klein brands under one creative vision', both Francisco Costa (women's creative director) and Italo Zucchelli (men's creative director) left their posts at the company. And in a move that sent a jolt of excitement through the American fashion world, the company announced its appointment of Raf Simons as chief creative officer, overseeing all men's and women's apparel under the Calvin Klein umbrella.

His first collection for the brand will debut at New York Fashion Week this February, following the big reveal of a redesigned logo and new bespoke line.

BALENCIAGA

After just six seasons, Alexander Wang departed Balenciaga for reasons still unknown. When Vetements' Demna Gvsalia was announced as his replacement, the fashion industry reached a state of hysteria not seen for years.

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Expectations were high, but they were reached and surpassed - twice.

As for Alexander Wang?

His AW16 collection (and what followed) reminded us that - generally - things always work out for the best.

LANVIN

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Loved by all as a person and as a designer, Alber Elbaz's surprise departure from Lanvin in 2015 was arguably the most heart-breaking.

Commenting on the matter, Elbaz mentioned the fact that 'everybody in fashion these days needs just a little more time'.

While the industry reverberated with a nodding of heads, fingers pointed to the numerous disputes the Israeli designer had with Lanvin's owner in the months leading up to the event.

As the announcement was made in the same week as Raf Simons' departure from Dior, it was widely speculated Dior was Elbaz's next destination only for Maria Grazia Chiuri to take the post instead.

As for Lanvin, Bouchra Jarrar took the reigns debuting her first collection with the house during the spring/summer 17 season.

SAINT LAURENT

Miami - Thank you for yesterday @ysl @wmag @gagosiangallery

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When Hedi Slimane replaced Stefano Pilati as Yves Saint Laurent's creative director in 2012, he made a lot of changes: the 'Yves' was dropped from the brand's name; logos were altered; design work was done from his studio in Los Angeles rather than in the brand's Parisian headquarters, and a commercially-minded rock and roll aesthetic ruled supreme.

And then in 2016, he left. And Anthony Vaccarello, previously creative director of Versus, arrived — bringing the logo's beloved 'Y' and a sexually charged new vision with him.

MULBERRY

Mulberry is delighted to announce that Johnny Coca will start as Creative Director on July 8th 2015.

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From 2007, Emma Hill had been widely credited with transforming Mulberry into a force to be reckoned with through a series of beloved bags created in tribute to the likes of beloved Brit It girls such as Alexa Chung.

Eventually, however, current affairs caught up with the company and it struggled through the credit crisis, a rough patch that ultimately led to Hill's departure in 2013.

After more than a year of rumours (everyone from Simone Rocha to Sophie Hulme was predicted to be a replacement), Johnny Coca was revealed as the man for the job. Two seasons into the gig, he's set a more fashion forward course for the brand, complete with a ss17 show styled by fashion's woman of the moment, Lotta Volkova.

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