Marios Schwab has drawn inspiration from medical illustrations and human anatomy, and he told the BFC that this season, he’s looking at chiaroscuro. Who better for him to reference than the technique’s originator, Leonardo da Vinci? Besides society portraits like the Mona Lisa, da Vinci created painstaking anatomical drawings such as The Vitruvian Man. He’s the subject of a blockbuster exhibition at the National Gallery from 9 November.
Ashish Gupta’s design philosophy could be described as, ‘take that shirt and bling it.’ The master of sequins invokes brand imagery in his designs to create a cacophony of colour and symbol. Last season, he showed anti-establishment ‘TEEN IDLE’ t-shirts; the season before that, his shoes bore Coca-Cola logos. Ai Weiwei’s globally celebrated work drew the ire of the Chinese government, which incarcerated him on trumped-up tax evasion charges. His series of ancient-looking urns inscribed with modern corporate logos (addressing modernisation v heritage) is on view as part of the V&A’s Postmodernism exhibition.