NYFW

New York Fashion Week AW17: Everything You Need To Know

Tommy decamps to LA, Kanye courts controversy (again), and so much more

1. Raf's big debut

If you only pay attention to one thing this NYFW, make it this: Raf Simons' Calvin Klein debut.

The former Creative Director of Dior was installed at the helm of the US megabrand last August, and he's been drip-feeding his new vision since the beginning of the year.

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His debut ad campaign unveiled a new logo, as well as a more understated direction for the brand, which has become synonymous with unashamed sexiness. Simons, a well-known art lover, eschewed big names like Kendall and Bieber in their Calvins for models in classic Calvin pieces standing in front of works by iconic American artists Andy Warhol, Richard Prince and Sterling Ruby. A refreshing change.

He's also announced the arrival of an 'open made-to-measure service' called Calvin Klein By Appointment, a collection of 14 items that can be custom-made, making the brand's celeb-only atelier available to all (who can afford it...). So, all in all, it's set to be an exciting moment in NYFW. Catch the show at 10am (New York time) on February 10th.

2. Tommy's LA holiday

Tommy Hilfiger is taking inspiration from his muse, born and bred Los Angelean Gigi Hadid and decamping from his usual slot on the NYFW schedule to the City of Angels, and it all sounds pretty dreamy.

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The show will take place on Venice Beach, with more than 3,000 press, buyers, industry influencers and consumers expected the be in attendance, on February 8th, the eve of NYFW. The second Gigi x Tommy collection will of course be the star of the show – which will be see now, buy now – and expect a music festival atmosphere. If last season's show, for which the designer created 'Tommy Pier' complete with 4—foot ferris well, rides, games and food stalls, is anything to go by.

3. Proenza bows out

Proenza Schouler will wave goodbye to the city's bi-annual fashion week after its show. But don't worry, they're not disappearing. Instead, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have decided to join the fashion calendar shake-up and start showing their collections in a different way; from July they'll eschew February and September show periods, instead showing in January and July in Paris, during the haute couture shows.

After months of careful planning, Proenza Schouler is pleased to announce its decision to break from the traditional ready-to-wear calendar in order to pursue a business model more aligned to the realities of commerce today. Beginning with Spring/Summer 2018 Proenza Schouler will consolidate its main runway and pre collection into one collection shown to buyers and press twice annually in July and January. This first unified collection will be shown in Paris aligned with the timing of Haute Couture in July 2017. Currently a large percentage of the brand's sales are placed during the pre-collection market with the smaller balance going to the runway delivery, which, in truth, is the heart and soul of the Proenza Schouler brand. This shift in strategy will ensure that Proenza Schouler’s runway collection, including both ready-to-wear and accessories, will be the focus of buys and deliver to stores earlier, thus giving them a longer life at retail. The collection will be divided into monthly deliveries each representing key groups from the show. As the brand prepares the global launch of Proenza Schouler fragrance in collaboration with L’Oréal Luxe in 2018, a more pronounced international presence is a key initiative. This move to Paris will aid in achieving the company’s short and long-term goals, and enable the organization to function in a way that is more aligned with the demands of the industry today. The Fall/ Winter 2017 show will take place in New York on February 13th, 2017 as originally scheduled. #proenzaschouler #nyfw #pfw

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Expect their final show on the NYFW schedule to be an emotional affair – McCollough and Hernandez met and trained at the city's prestigious Parsons School of Design and are considered one of the New York fashion scene's brightest lights. Hankies at the ready, it's the end of an era.

4. Rodarte won't be at the party – and neither will DKNY

There's a noticeable hole in this season's schedule as Rodarte isn't on it. Maybe there's something in the water.

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The label, founded by sister Kate and Laura Mulleavy, announced in January that, for this season only, it would leave NYFW to instead show the AW17 collection via a private presentation during Paris Fashion Week in March. Following that, the label will align its future shows with Haute Couture Fashion Week in January and July, just like Proenza Schouler.

@linebrems and @veravanerp backstage at the Rodarte FW16 Show (Photo by @vnina). #Rodarte

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Likewise, DKNY won't be on the schedule either. Currently a captainless ship following the departure of Creative Directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, we'll just have to wait and see if it returns next season.

5. Yeezy's back (and looking for trouble)

NYFW's not even started and already Kanye has caused a furore. Not that we'd expect anything less. Just like last season, the rapper-cum-designer has scheduled his Yeezy season 5 show to take place at the same time as another prominent designer's showcase – this time it's Marchesa. The good news for attendees is that he's picked a run-of-the-mill venue – Pier 59 Studios – as opposed to an off-the-wall one. The last Yeezy show was held on Roosevelt Island, and resulted in literal bus-loads of editors sitting in New York traffic for hours to try and get there.

YZY SZN 4 - ROOSEVELT ISLAND

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So, what can we expect this time? Well, they'll be highly-anticipated kicks, of course, as Adidas is still involved with the show. We also imagine the Calabasas-themed Adidas pieces Kim and Kanye has been spotted wearing of late will get a formal debut (Calabasas is LA neighbourhood in which the Kardashian-Wests reside). Plus, will the pair's new kids designs make an appearance? Little North modelled them on her mum's social networks last week, so we reckon there's a good chance kidswear is on the agenda.

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6. Mansur Gavriel's sweet treats

First it was sell-out bags. Then sell-out shoes. And now likely sell-out clothes. Mansur Gavriel, creator of that ubiquitous bucket bag, have a big year ahead. Sadly, we'll have to wait until September's New York Fashion Week to see the brand's first stab at ready-to-wear, but the excellent news is that when we do it will be see now, buy now, meaning we can get our hands on it straight away.

MOON CLUTCH BLACK SUEDE ❤️ ANKLE BOOT BLACK SUEDE

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To tide us over the brand will open a 'fully immersive Candy shop environment' at its pop-up store on 134 Wooster Street for four weeks starting on February 15th. Customers will be able to shop the SS17 collection of bags and shoes while enjoying Italian sweet treats (MG bags are all handmade in Italy).

'We create immersive Mansur Gavriel environments every season and so wanted to continue that. We love the idea of creating a new world for guests to escape to,' say founders Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel.

MINI MINI BUCKET ❤️ SEA BLUE

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Expect it to be all over your Insta feed and in the meantime – or if you can't get to NY in time - feast your eyes on the brand's own beautiful Instagram feed. Aesthetically delicious.

7. Rag & Bone turns 15

The last few months have seen big changes for Rag & Bone' co-founder David Neville announced he was departing the brand last June in order to focus on other projects, including a new skincare brand with make-up artist wife Gucci Westman.

Kate Moss for the Fall/Winter '12 campaign. Photography by Craig McDean. #ragandbone15

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This means that other half o the duo Marcus Wainwright will be celebrating the label's 15th birthday solo at NYFW. We're not sure what's planned, but we are sure it will be achingly cool.

8. Monse + Oscar de la Renta

In a twist to usual proceedings,this NYFW will see two brands - one old, one new - tie-up for one show.

Dad jeans and leopard. #monseprefall17 #monse

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Let us explain: Oscar de la Renta's new co-Creative Directors Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim are also the designers behind hot new label Monse. So, they'll show their AW17 collections for both brands in one show on February 13th. We can't wait to see how it works.

9. Philipp Plein makes his NYFW debut

German-born designer Philipp Plein has been a Milan Fashion Week stalwart, until now. He'll show as part of NYFW for the first time this season and continue to going forward. His shows are bonkers (the last starred Paris Hilton and Fergie), so definitely keep an eye out for this one on Instagram.

#PLEINSQUAD @parishilton #nobodycanstopus #dopeness

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