Grunge

It’s fair to say that a grunge revival has been bubbling under for a while. The signs are all there – Doc Martens have once again gone stellar, checked shirts are a wardrobe staple and fashion fans are ripping their jeans left, right and centre. And, having examined the a/w 2009 collections we can officially tell you that next season you’ll be no-one unless you’ve taken your look back to the nineties. Here’s the head’s up on how – and why – you should be rocking this look.

First up, the history. Grunge was spawned out of Seattle when indy record label Sub Pop harnessed the untapped talent of bands within the city in the late 1980s. The Melvins, Green River, Alice in Chains and Soundgarden were the pioneers of the punk-meets-heavy-metal sound, but the scene really took off when Nirvana released Nevermind. Once the video for ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ hit MTV Kurt Cobain became the pin-up for millions of teenagers across the globe, and flannel shirts and dirty jeans their new wardrobe staples. And, of course, there was the Queen of grunge, Courtney Love, lead singer of Hole and Cobain’s wife, with her babydoll dresses, ripped tights and smudged eyeliner.

Grunge really moved from sub-culture to the realms of high fashion when designer-of-the-moment Marc Jacobs was inspired by its look and feel to create a now legendary collection for the Perry Ellis label in 1992. He took the staple pieces of grunge and gave them a luxury make-over – sleeveless flannel shirts were made up in luxury silks and Converse made their signature Chuck Taylor trainers for him in Duchesse silk. Layering was key – full length floral dresses worn over striped granddad collared tops, flowing button-up skirts left open to reveal hot pants underneath, crop tops over T-shirts under shirts. The collection was loved by the world’s press and won Marc Jacobs the CFDA Designer of the Year Award. Sadly it didn’t meet with the approval of the board and he was promptly fired.

Now the look is back with a vengeance. Don’t forget that grunge originally sprung up at the end of the eighties, when conspicuous consumption reigned supreme, and as the world declined into a recession. Sound familiar? London designers in particular have really championed the look for next autumn – take your cue from Ann-Sofie Back, Charles Anastase, Topshop Unique and even Julien MacDonald. This time around the look has more polish, of course and a decidedly modern feel. Stock up on ripped skinnies and hang on to your trusty leather biker – it will come into its own come autumn.

By Emma Sells