Dispatches from Milan: Gucci

Rebecca Lowthorpe reports

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GIF: Gucci, s/s 2015 - Getty

The big news at Gucci? Apart from Kate Moss, the face of the brand’s new Jackie bag in the front row, sitting beside Charlotte Casiraghi, the face of Gucci Cosmetics making its debut today on the s/s 2015 runway? No, the really big new thing at Gucci? Clothes with a broader appeal – jeans! Denim jackets! Not the rock-hard polish that Frida Giannini, Gucci’s Creative Director, has espoused for many years, but a looser, more relaxed, bohemian kind of glamour.

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She put uniforms of a military and nautical nature through the blender with the hippie, free-wheeling spirit of 1970s prints and patchwork. The result was a strong collection that won’t require a lethal pair of stilettos. The footwear may have been reasonably high, but the heels were chunky, in calfskin, python or suede – not needle-sharp weapons.  

The uniform part – already a huge trend for spring – included neat white officer’s jackets with gold buttons and crisp, plain white dresses, a Gucci silk scarf knotted at the neck and a Jackie bag – with its classic green/red webbing strap slung over one shoulder. But the inimitable Gucci gloss was soon offset with slouchy, low on the hips, wide-cropped jeans and denim or suede dresses with plunging Vs (of course), sometimes closed with criss-cross lacing or brass buttons – above the knee or curvy and below the knee with a generous slit. The Bohemia kicked in about halfway through with patchwork fur gilets, flippy oriental-print silks and sky-blue broderie anglaise dresses – the latter may sound sweet, but they still managed to expose a good deal of thigh.

Giannini couldn’t resist a dab of glitz with the addition of python and golden embroideries, but it was fairly well restrained. And when it came to the evening wear – usually a fleet of floor-length gowns that may or may not come festooned with crystal – these dresses remained resolutely above the knee, with racer fronts or Vs to the waistband, in multi-coloured Chinese prints and dappled with micro embroideries.

Today, at least, the Gucci woman looked softer, more relaxed in her skin – which was also notably devoid of make-up. Not the kohl-black smouldering eyes of before, but fresh, barely there make-up that looked much more modern. Pat McGrath’s collaboration with Frida Giannini on the new Gucci Cosmetics will, no doubt, be a huge hit. As will the jeans. Just one of many good reasons to revisit Gucci. 

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