GIF: Isabel Marant, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, Imaxtree, Getty
The magic of Isabel Marant is in her way with easy, chic pieces that women can't wait to put on. This season she'd toned down the boho elements that reoccur in her pieces and their absence gave the collection more polish. It hadn't lost any of its essence though and the girls – including Karlie Kloss, Anna Ewers and Kasia Struss – who love to wear her clothes off the catwalk as well as on it, wore it with swagger and insouciance. Her references were tribal: raffia tops, fringed jackets and tiny shells stitched across T-shirts. There were plenty of her staple shapes on offer too - flippy mini dresses, wraparound sleeveless jackets and slouchy separates that her fan girls will snap up. Ultimately, though, it's Marant herself who is the best advert for her clothes. Taking her bow in a T-shirt (sleeves artfully rolled), and a pleated leather skirt and sandals from the collection - both sure to be instant sell-outs – she was the embodiment of the cool, Paris-by-way-of-LA vibe that makes the label so appealing.
It began with the music at Issey Miyake. No ordinary soundtrack here. Instead, musician Ei Wada played the organ accompanied by his self-invented Flying Records, a line of magnetic tape players operated by helium balloons bobbing up and down that alternately emitted recordings of a choir and strange whines. The combination of sounds made the space feel almost church-like, especially when five models dressed in clods of white honeycomb pleats congregated at the top of the catwalk and walked down at a speed usually reserved for the aisle rather than the catwalk. Then there was a change of pace, and the stalwart folds and creases and cocoon shapes made way for cotton shirting and trousers, tablecloth checked coats and some natty silk pieces printed with graphic monochrome checks, alongside block colours. And make sure you take note of the bags – the omnipresent Bao Bao has some competition.
Image: Isabel Marant, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, Imaxtree
After the duvet-like proportions of last season, Yohji Yamamoto stripped off the padding and offered up a much more svelte and – a new departure – sexy silhouette. He began with monochrome layers of slip dresses held together with laces, so undone that the models appeared to be falling out of them. Then he moved into texture play: lace and crochet, an amazing knitted gold tinsel dress, colourful embroidery and silk Devore feathers, culminating in a chapter of gold leather coats. And then there was the finale, a nod to romance with a wedding dress of extravagant proportions, embellished with colourful fresh flowers and topped off with a luxury bicycle helmet. Some of the looks would be challenging to wear in real life (wedding-dress-and-helmet combo being one) but there were some great takeaway pieces: cropped jackets in lace and leather, asymmetric tailored jackets with white thread running over the shoulders, lightweight jumpsuits with zips around the waist or up the back, fisherman-style trousers, and some draped dresses with open backs and embroidered panels that were truly beautiful.