Dispatches from Paris: Givenchy

Rebecca Lowthorpe reports

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GIF: Givenchy, s/s 2015 - IMAXTREE

The pitch-black, stocking-high boots said it all. At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci circled back to ‘hardcore sex’ – his words. And why not? This is a man who likes abrupt change – in the last year alone, his ready-to-wear collections have bounded from Masai women to butterflies for inspiration. But whatever he touches on always amounts to the same thing: a bold woman with fearless confidence. She will need to have the inner strength of the entire Kardashian clan if she wants to wear spring/summer 2015.

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Kimye was there, of course, with North, who was togged out in baby Givenchy, naturally. You could picture these clothes on Kim – the boned jackets, corset-laced tops and brief lace skirts – but then it made you wonder what would happen if they fell into the hands of a voluptuous woman, a woman with generous hips... These clothes certainly had on-stage presence, from the second-skin catsuits with corset lacing between the breasts, to the bronze, tinsel-fringed jackets – in fact, they’re probably heading to a music video shoot right now.

IMAGE: Givenchy, s/s 2015 - IMAXTREE

Tisci had reconfigured the seating so that everyone was close enough to reach out and touch the clothes – a nightmare for the catwalk photographers, but hugely beneficial to the audience, who were able to witness the absolute pinnacle of Givenchy craftsmanship. Those centurion dresses with strips of chocolate studded leather stitched onto sheer black skirts. The frock coats seamed with ridges of metal eyelets. All the sheer lace and concertina-pleat miniskirts were exceptionally beautifully made. The workmanship on Edie Campbell’s lace-trimmed jacket and hot pants covered in microscopic beads was alone a feat of couture-like embellishment.

One thing you can be certain of, Riccardo Tisci doesn’t stand still. Perhaps next season he’ll circle back to high church and we’ll be raving about his wimples and priestly robes. Wonder what Kimye would make of that?

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