‘The spirit of protest and action,’ said Luella Bartley of her and Katie Hillier’s MBMJ show. ‘It’s a youth-oriented brand so we tried to have this feeling of positivity, like how young people think they can change the world.’
From the ‘suffragette’ and ‘sorority’ slogans that emblazoned sleeves and long skirts, to the stomping thigh-high buckled boots and berets studded with silver ball bearings, the whole thing smacked of girl power.
This New York Fashion Week has seen a lot of power-positive female images stalking the catwalks (see Alexander Wang and Altuzarra), but no other designers in Manhattan could put such an authentic rebel spin on it. That’s partly because Bartley and Hillier are from London and were both determined fashion rebels back in the day, and partly because they’re working for Marc Jacobs, himself a proper fashion rebel.
The uniform this season comprised tartan trews with slogan tops and William Morris-print jackets with their take on the Mini-Crini. Some of it recalled their first collection for the brand in September 2013, in terms of its spirit at least. ‘She’s the same character - a charming vigilante,’ is how Hillier put it.
Marc Jacobs’ young customer will love it.