It was the colours that really stood out at the Roksanda a/w 2015 show; incredible, rich, clashing shades that undulated across her elongated silhouettes, almost glowing in the light that streamed through the Art Deco glass roof of the Seymour Place Leisure Centre. ‘I wanted to bring the feel of a forest in autumn with the wonderful rust and deep red and burgundy but, clashed against the acid pinks and blues, that can only be manmade,’ said Ilincic backstage. ‘I love having the contrast between something organic and something quite industrial.’
A closer look at the pieces revealed intricate, interesting textures - they were the starting point for the collection. She’d spent time in her studio playing around with textile techniques, translating her drawings into 3D objects and trying to create fabrics that looked like one thing but were actually another. Case in point: the opening section of dresses and skirts that at first glance appeared to be knitted but were in fact woven tapestries.
And then there were the looks themselves. The Roksanda woman loves an elegant shape to go with her bold colour palette and next season she’s going to be spoilt for choice. Those woven dresses and full skirts with gently frayed edges worn with simple turtle necks, the patterned and leather culottes, the fluted coats fastened with silver plates and the checkered evening wear, all mixed in with fun fur coats, belted stoles and fuzzy, outsized bags in acid shades. The effect was beautifully arresting and unmistakably Roksanda.