Dispatches from New York: The Sunday highlights

Public School's big season and a Karlie, Kendall and Gigi moment at DVF


1) Public School – It’s safe to say that the audience had swelled at Public School, the industry’s eyes zeroing in on Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne ahead of their DKNY debut this Wednesday. Their collection was monastery meets street, with monochrome floor-sweeping robes and plenty of drawstrings, mesh flight coats, silky pants, blousons and vests. As it had such a streety downtown vibe, it made you wonder what they’re going to come up with for DKNY, the ultimate New York youth brand. Watch this space.


2) Diane Von Furstenberg – When you have the holy trinity of the modelling world’s Instagirls streaming down your runway – Karlie, Kendall and Gigi – everything looks good. So what was DVF’s woman up to for SS16? 'Celebrating truth, nature and freedom, she redefines beauty and paints her own destiny,' said the show notes. Translation: silk jersey sheaths, printed jumpsuits, peasant dresses, cheetah sandals. Yep, she’s a modern romantic in DVF boho mode. And as the designer herself put it: ‘Feeling divine in white chiffon with python trim, she is the master of her own fate.’

3) Edun – Danielle Sherman, Edun's creative director, is a name to know. Previously at Alexander Wang and The Row (which she co-founded with her childhood friends Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen), the designer has taken Edun, the Africa-focused conscious clothing label, to new heights. Inspired by the ceremonial dress of the Kuba people (people of the cloth) and performance artists in 1930s Europe, she translated all that into cool, modernist clothes. Key pieces? The fringed black trouser suit, the entire batch of jumpsuits, all the hand-loomed Moroccan brocades, macramé and crochet knits were all contenders. Hard to believe this elegantly refined haute fashion is, almost all of it, sourced and made in Africa. 

4) Opening Ceremony – A model stumbled on the catwalk. Ahh, poor thing, we thought. A minute later, another fell on her face. Oh, the floor must be slippery, how awful. By the time the third model tripped then leapt up, spinning in an artful balletic way, we were on to them. ‘It was a surprise, right?’ said Carol Lim alongside her design partner Humberto Leon. Turns out, the collapsing models were wearing pieces originally created for a modern dance production choreographed by Iovanna Lloyd-Wright, the daughter of the late architect Frank Lloyd Wright, with whose foundation the pair had collaborated on a range of hoodies, T-shirts and kaftans. Aside from the clumsy models who kept falling over, the collection was a treat, particularly in the silk pyjama department.

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