1. Gucci is selling
'To inflame change, thinking has to be “rhizomatic” (G. Deleuze, F. Guattari). It has to generate a movement able to proliferate in different directions,’ read the show notes for Gucci. Based on everything that took place at the show on day one of Milan Fashion Week AW16, we’d say Creative Director Alessandro Michele's mission was accomplished.
Before we get into the new autumn/winter 16 collection, let’s talk about the small but significant ‘pre-show’ that was happening outside. As chauffeured cars pulled up to the old disused railway station where the catwalk was held, show-goers stepped out wearing all manner of pieces and full looks from Michele’s three previous seasons. The parking lot was a wonderland of double GG logos: there were the flat, floral print loafers; the flat, black loafers; the fringed block heels in every finish and colourway; the metallic blouses; the matching pleated skirts; the flared trousers; the retro knits; the nerdy glasses; the berets. All the looks moving to and fro on every possible kind of woman in one sprawling carpark and, minutes later, those same women were lined up neatly on one endless FROW. All this one month after Beyoncé danced her way through a handful of Michele's runway pieces. Rhizomatic? It sure looks that way.
And the clothes are clearly selling, which would explain why Michele chose not to veer too wildly from the direction he first set out in with his autumn/winter 15 debut. The unapologetic quirk and eccentricity we now know and love Michele for was there but the clothes had a less piled-on look to them. There were slightly fewer layers to pick apart, just really well-made standout pieces — knubby, shaggy and furry coats, frilled knit blouses, le smokings and tailored trousers, graphic skirts, embroidered jumpers and brocade outerwear and more — that will surely fill the FROW come next runway season. The item we’re predicting will be a big hit? A leather tote with the word ‘real’ painted above the Gucci logo by artist Trouble Andrew, who goes by Gucci Ghost. It looked fun on the runway and especially clever on Instagram where the #Gucci hashtag is typically filled with images of counterfeits, and now this.
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2. The velvet brigade
Velvet is turning out to be one of the season’s most inescapable trends and not all of it looks entirely appealing or convincing. Day one of Milan is making us rethink the fabric, however. Alberta Ferretti made it look elegant rather than girly as a new season update on her pretty, bias-cut gowns and slip dresses. Meanwhile, her belted velvet pyjamas were the evening look we never knew we needed until now.
3. Uptown punk
At Fausto Puglisi, tricked-out and studded Derby boots (trending this season) gave a punk edge to his otherwise colourful, flamboyant and, at times, outright sexy collection. Highly instagrammable decoration and embellishment was in abundance: studs, crystals, ribbons, strips, embroidered pine trees (yes, really). You name it, it was there.
4. Cavalli at its most Cavalli
Creative Director Peter Dundas of Cavalli described his collection as divine decadence, which was a bit of an understatement. Hundreds of candles and a harpist created ambiance outside the show, while a gilded ceiling full of elaborate chandeliers and an opera singer set the tone inside. It’s a testament to how bold the clothes were that the elaborate backdrop didn’t distract from his glamorous rockstar looks, which literally could have suited a wide range of divas, famous or not. There were the Stevie Nicks-like floaty dresses, long scarves and velvet robes; the Jennifer Lopez-appropriate animal prints; and the sheer lace bombshell gowns that had Beyoncé’s name written all over them.
All in all, a colourful start to Milan Fashion Week
