Paris Fashion Week: Rick Owens Review

Rick Owens’ real clothes

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Held in the usual venue, the huge warehouse-like space at Boulevard de Bercy, (usually home to basketball, concerts, tennis and so on), with a wind machine blasting out smoke, (there is always some big and meaningful backdrop be it a wall of fire or foam), Rick Owens staged another powerful show.
His Amazonian warrior women – what else could you call these other-worldly, untouchable, single-minded, statuesque creatures? They wore towering black leather boots with needle heels, leather gauntlets and frizzed power hair swept to one side, just so, by the wind (machine).
That’s the strong, rigorous vision – it really is quite impressive when you see all 30 something warrior women striding out as one at the end. But what about the clothes? You might imagine that clothes – trousers with actual legs, jackets with actual sleeves - don’t exist in Rick Owens’ world. But you’d be wrong.
This season, almost every look was made of pieces for real life – so long as you have the charisma and height (or a pair of his very high boots) to carry them off.
Brilliant were the duffle coats that almost reached the floor, with large toggles, in cream or black, the long soft sheepskin tunics, the jumpers that were cropped under the bust with long tulip sleeves in contrast mohair, the simple but effective black taffeta shift dresses that featured ballooning capes at the back.
Also striking were the simple black jackets that had been laced with white cord, or black leather, that looked almost skeletal, as if they were picking out the bones of the body. The lacing also appeared in bigger, bolder leather knots on felted wool coats.
It was a slick, concise show that felt shorter than usual. Possibly because it was so mesmerising and there was so much to love.
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