Just in in from Milan: Trussardi

Umit Benan's grounding as a menswear designer was patently clear at Trussardi's AW13 offering.


In a lofty industrial space bedecked with rows of reindeer horns, Umit Benan's utilitarian vision for AW13 unfolded. If his aim was to clash country chic with urban minimalism, he succeeded - at least insofar as his clothes were both suitable for country rambling and city posing.
As a menswear designer originally, Benan's forte is for strong, sharp tailoring and this was most apparent in his outerwear: angular, stiff and standing away from the female body rather than following its line, it made a strong statement paired with clunky ponyskin loafers and shiny leather tote bags.

The ponyskin was everywhere: in angular side panels on mannish coats that were Benan’s only references to the female waist, on beautifully crafted bags (hunting bags, the show notes called them), and most beautifully in a straight black coat with a zip around the hips. Spliced with shiny stiff leather, thick waterproof cottons and silks in a serious colour palette of black, navy brown and beige, it was the quintessential indulgence of the classic woman’s working wardrobe.


But even a working woman needs a bit of playtime, and though this was kept to a strict minimum, there was a brilliant silk jumpsuit in a black and white grid pattern which provided some relief from the strict utilitarian leathers and trench coats. Little chiffon pleated skirts with raw hems also hinted at the feminine side of Benan’s power woman, but in general she kept it under wraps of practicality.

Trussardi is a label known for quality, practicality and long-lasting goods (it was started as a glove company). It is not known for revolutionising trends. And in this respect, Benan is fulfilling his contract, with class.

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