This season, for the first time since Alberta Ferretti founded Philosophy in 1994, theres a new name on the marquee: Natalie Ratabesi.
Ferretti handpicked the Central Saint Martins-trained designer to give Philosophy a more independent and autonomous vision in October 2012. After todays show, its clear the brand couldnt be in the hands of a more capable successor.
Ratabesi looked to the fashion-infallible 50s for a series of full-skirted silhouettes. Sweet, serene dresses and princess-seamed coats were good enough, but what made this collection interesting were the details. Like the narrow chiffon bands inset into the yoke of a red jumper, and the windows of chiffon lightening the poet sleeves on an otherwise simple cream dress -pure, airy romance.
Okay, it wasnt always totally cohesive - a disco fairisle knit and an awkwardly proportioned apron jumper (long in the front and short in the back, a reverse of the NYFW high-low hem trend) come to mind. There was enough in there, though, that were eager to see where Ratabesi takes the brand next.