Kanye West may have been a no-show, but anyone who did attend Louise Goldins presentation could walk out confident that he or she had witnessed a New York Fashion Week moment.
The presentation marked Goldins second season showing in New York after a hiatus from fashion. Known as a knitwear star in London, shes pushed the techniques even further in New York, arriving at a mature collection of collaged, quilted, totally desirable looks.
The theme? Futuristic warriors. Trapunto detailing made body armour (a New York mini-trend) out of cropped jumpers. The same padded, quilted look appeared in leather panels across the shoulders of a collarless wool coat, with an unexpected shot of sweetness coming from the frilly Victorian-looking collar peeking out of the crewneck jumper beneath.
Skirts that looked pleated actually featured little strips of laser-cut leather set into a knit background. The optical illusions continued with graphic cable-knit-pattered jumpers and skirts in which cutouts allowed a second layer of colour to wink through.
I wanted them to be handsome women, Goldin said backstage. I love this sort of masculine but charming woman, that was both elegant yet cool.
