Jonathan Anderson has come a long way since the resin insect necklaces, Aran knitwear and transparent underpants of his 2008 London College of Fashion graduation collection. While he remains a fan of the re-shuffling of traditional gender codes, today’s look was a streamlined take on androgyny.
Ruffle-hemmed skirts and shorts in white, slate grey and sand, and tailored pinstripe trousers with floppy over-sized pockets were all themes from his spring/summer 2013 womenswear collection. Motif knits featuring a white picket fence and scissor emblems were sharp and graphic, while torso-hugging, contrast-trim knits teamed with tailored shorts are surely destined for Alexa Chung’s wishlist.
Anderson added a dose of kinky with leather boots that frilled at the knee, micro-mini leather pinafores and long-sleeved shirt-dresses that unbuttoned so high at the back they threatened to pop right open. Wool bandeau tops, white frill-trimmed gloves and a slim-cut grey shift dress tipped the femininity into over-drive, but tailored wool overcoats in cobalt and sand readjusted the balance.
If this was indeed ‘a projection of the mind onto a white canvas’, Anderson’s mind works in subversive and inspired ways.