Richard Nicoll’s fresh minimalism

A bright yellow line down the middle of the runway hinted at Richard Nicoll's streamlined theme.

For spring summer 2013, the designer showed a sportswear- and urban-inflected collection in crisp, clear tones.

There were sweatshirt and t-shirt shapes in swingy silk, cycling shorts in soft blue leather and upscaled windbreaker looks. Trains on dramatic stepped-hem dresses had the weightlessness of nylon, but turned out to be taffeta.

The mesh and double thigh splits we've seen elsewhere showed up here too, this time with a layered aspect that felt new. Sporty mesh appeared as slices of fabric around the neckline and in double thigh splits that exposed mesh windows underneath.

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‘It came from an athleticism and an idea of sensuality, but in a sporty way,’ Nicoll told us backstage after the show. ‘And versatility in terms of day-to-night.’ None of it had anything to do with the Olympics. ‘Not consciously,’ at least.

The designer said ‘it felt right’ to return to a full-scale show after a season of the presentation format. Fresher, younger, with lashings of ‘90s sportswear—it felt right to the women in the audience too.

Click here to see the full collection

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