The idea of resurrecting an English heritage brand in the style of Burberry or Mulberry is fashion’s Holy Grail these days. But Belstaff’s Spring Summer 13 show suggested that they have what it takes.

Under new ownership, with the creative direction of designer Martin Cooper, this is a brand who have a lot to prove – but the money and talent to do so.

Founded in 1924 to produce waxed jackets for motorcyclists, worn by stars like Steve McQueen, Belstaff need to transition from utility to luxury - and this first catwalk show was a huge step along the way.

Martin Cooper came to the brand from Burberry’s design studio and his skill with outerwear was clear in the cropped, sleeveless and perforated jackets that referenced Belstaff’s iconic Trialmaster, with its four pockets and hardware.

He added more, though: striped canvas shirtdresses, slouchy pants and brilliant wooden wedges trimmed with suede and python.

The future’s bright. And here’s betting that a Belstaff jacket will be a must-have by Christmas.