Ice, water and pearls have been Karl Largerfeld's most recent reflective friends used to update Chanel's iconic tweed, and today's autumn winter 2012 collection at Paris Fashion Week found us surrounded by giant crystal formations shooting up from a bed of clear glass sand at the Grand Palais venue.

These quarterly events, if we're counting couture, are rumoured to cost as much as £1,000,000 to produce after you've thrown in performances by Florence Welch (SS12) and Lily Allen (SS10), an iceberg the size of the Palais (AW10) and the interior of a private jet (couture SS12).

Today, don't scoff, was marginally more restrained—save for the 30ft crystals of course (possibly semi-precious knowing Chanel)—but equally spectacular because this is Chanel World and forever mesmerising to witness.

Uneven rocks of crystals in watery shades were scattered over the bibs and collars of navy boucle, forming the heel of blue and green part Mary-Jane, part boot shoes and spiked inch-thick on the forearms of coats. Truly we responded like Magpies.

Feathers were liberally patched on to the capes of coats and hoods of slouchy parkas, while dresses and trousers were created from a delicate patchwork of lace and silk. The Boy bag is updated in a deep purple velvet and there's an ever so cute miniature quilted rucksack. Beauty fiends will be pleased to know that the Vendetta deep purple nail shade is still the one to shoot for while the white Pearl Drop will be a best seller.

Lagerfeld is adept at cornering every type of consumer in the luxury realm. Here we have lady-like classics like the plain white skirt suit, a directional heavy wool jumpsuit so sturdy it looked like it could stand up on its own, sporty cobalt metallic blousons and romantic sheer trapeze dresses. Something to excite the many territories and sensitivities, all of whom universally rate Chanel as the pinnacle brand.

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