This, a well-loved joke from the House, details gossip from Woodie's Wardrobe Whispers and Kiki Chicey. It's a case of art imitating life these days with the many rumours flying around about the future of the John Galliano label without its creator and who will take over at Dior.

But the most striking thing about this newsletter should have been the date: Paris, Thursday April 14, 1994. What happened that exact day is unclear, but it was an iconic year for Galliano. After financial backers had pulled out, Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley introduced Galliano to socialite and patron Sao Schlumberger who funded a small show of 17 black looks at the Hotel Particulier. Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell were among the models who waived their five-figure fee to appear and it started the beginning of a new chapter in his career, later that year winning British Fashion Designer of the Year before joining Givenchy the following summer.

Today's autumn winter 2012 collection, created by Bill Gaytten, was a long way from that heyday. Sure it riffed off the rebel heroine silhouette with equestrian cuts and diaphanous gowns so owned by Galliano, but it is beginning to lose its way. While last season was played beautifully with an honourable quiet remembrance and pride, this season the loss of drama and Galliano-ism is taking its toll. The heart of the label has been broken and it seems for this label, there's only one person to piece it back together.