His show at Paris Fashion Week commands a tightly edited guest list and a stellar model line-up. This time walking with Karlie Kloss and Lindsay Wixson was Andrej Pejic, the perfectly cast face of Gaultier's new men's fragrance, Kokorico.
Autumn winter 2012 gives us the rebel we expect from him: a hybrid vision of 70s and 80s New York with a tin foil stage, a caution yellow invitation and Velvet Underground blaring out from an imagined ghetto-blaster somewhere beyond.
She wears black leather - a lot of it - with button-backed pencil skirts and batwing dresses with elasticated edging, topped with voluminous bright orange blanket coats. Graffiti print is daubed on to tuxedo jackets and skirts, the paintwork dripping towards the waister belts and wedge heels.
Blousons with drawstring hems come in metallic orange - no muted autumnal shades here, thank you very much - and parachute trains flow from velvet spray-on mini-dresses.
With wet-look hair and roots pasted in contrasting colours of black, red and orange, the JPG rebel remains, her spirit undiluted and in a handy bottle s ize.